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SETTLEES' GUIDE 



— FOB THE 



PACIFIC SLOPE, 

Including the States of California, Oregon and 
Nevada, and Territories of Washington and 
Idaho, with a description of and 
the peculiarities of each. 

Describing minutely all the mere important bodies of the Public Lands en the Pacitic 
Slope, Facilities for Settlement, Markets, Health, etc. 

BY J. M. HAEPJSOJN". 



MULTUM IN PARVO" 



SAN FRANCISCO: 



C. A. MURDOCK & CO., BOOK AND JOB P: 

1875. 




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by J. 
Harrison, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
All rights reserved. 






BOOK OF INFORMATION AND 

SETTLER'S GUIDE. 



The writer of this little work having for some 
time been engaged on a work of considerable mag- 
nitude (Harrison's Guide and Kesources of the 
Pacific Slope,) has been addressed by letter 
and otherwise by many persons, both in the 
East and on this Coast, seeking information in re- 
gard to this section of country. Although we have 
in every instance paid the best attention that our 
time and circumstances would permit, yet owing 
to the great diversity of topography, soil, climate, 
productions, etc., of this Coast, it was impossible 
to give any very definite or intelligible idea of the 
country by any written or verbal communication gf 
ordinary length. Besides, it became a heavy tax 
on our time, not to say anything of the expense 
attached, as it costs writers something to live as 
well as other people. 

In order to be able to devote more time to our 
forthcoming work, and as a consequence make it 
more complete, and at the same time supply a 
pressing necessity, the writer has prepared the fol- 
lowing pages in advance of his larger work now 



under preparation, embracing an experience of over 
twenty-eight years on this Coast, the principal part 
of the past five years having been devoted to the 
exploration and examination of all the principal 
bodies of agricultural and other lands of the Pacific 
Slope, from Southern California to British Colum- 
bia. ' 

The writer being a practical farmer and business 
man, and having cultivated the soil in various parts 
of the States of California and Oregon and in 
Washington Territory, and being familiar with all 
parts of the Pacific Slope feels himself competent 
to judge of matters pertaining thereto. 

This work is not written in the interest of any par- 
ticular section of this Coast, its chief and leading 
feature being to point out the more important Gov- 
ernment lands of this Coast, facilities for settle- 
ment, market, health, etc. 

In addition, it will contain remarks on the pecu- 
liarities, topography, soil, productiveness, etc., of 
each different section /)f the Pacific Slope, and will 
be found invaluable to those in search of good and 
valuable homes, and prevent their being imposed 
upon by land speculators. The writer having been 
through the mill himself, can speak from personal 
experience and save those in search of homes and 
good business openings much disappointment and 
expense by his advice. Many on coming here from 
the Atlantic States return, simply from a want 
knowledge of the country. The interests of the 



states and Territories bordering on the Pacific 
Coast are closely identified. This city in par- 
ticular, being the metropolis and chief entrepot 
of tbe Pacific SIojdc, has a great interest in the 
whole country being settled. Every settler, no 
matter in what part, adds so much to her prosper- 
ity. 

Every section of country has its drawbacks. 

In this work, as in all others we have written, 
we have been as particular to point out the 
disadvantages the settler had to contend with, as 
the advantages of each section. We know this is 
not according to the general rule, but those who 
pay for information have a right to expect it. This 
we will endeavor to do to the best of our judgment 
and ability. 

CALIFOKNIA 

Is noted for the great varietj^ of its productions 
and the salubrity of its climate. Besides wheat, 
barley, oats, corn, etc. , there are produced within 
its borders about all the semi-tropical fruits, to- 
gether with all the fruits in the Northern States, 
It is also a country of extremes. Within its terri- 
tory are found some of the richest, and also the 
poorest desert-like country known. It has the big- 
gest farms, raises the biggest squashes, beets, etc., 
to be found anywhere. In fact, it would not be 
California if things were not done on a large scale. 



It is also noted for its mineral springs, resorted to 
by thousands for their supposed health-giving 
properties. The climate is various; in the north- 
west part the summers are moderately moist and 
cool; in the south, extremely dry; and back in the 
interior, oppressively warm ; (see our meteorological 
tables in another part. ) The rainy season in this 
State usually sets in in November, but there is 
seldom sufficient rain to saturate the ground before 
the last of December. The winter rains, owing to 
the ^:eneral conformation of the country, often 
cause floods, doing considerable damage. The 
mountain streams being bold and rapid, their 
waters come rushing into the valleys below, where 
the streams become slack and dead-like, there being 
little fall from thence seaward, causing a consider- 
able portion of the low lands to overflow. This is 
more particularly the case with the lower Sacra- 
mento and San Joaquin valleys. Levees have been 
constructed to prevent overflow on some of the low 
lands of these valleys, but the past winter many of 
them were broken and submerged, showing that 
water when fenced out, will only rise so much the 
higher on the outside. 

The principal body of agricultural lands of this 
State are embraced in the Sacramento and San Joa- 
quin valleys, both joining together, the former 
north, and the latter southward, being in the ag- 
gregate three hundred miles in length with an 
average width of about forty miles. 



The former has generally what is termed here an 
adobe soil; the latter is composed principally of a 
sandy loam, and in some parts on the east side of 
the San Joaquin, it is nearly all sand, so much so, 
that during the prevalance of the north winds it 
drifts into huge banks like snow drifts. We saw 
in one place a tract of about fifty acres that had 
been blown away to the depth it had been plowed 
after the wheat came up, leaving the print of the 
bar and shear of the plow. 

The great scourge of this section is the drouth 
and'l^north winds. To remedy this in part, it is 
pro^^osed to irrigate all, or a considerable portion 
of this section, which, if done, will be at a great 
sacrifice of health and increase of mortality. In 
the first place, it is doubtful about there being a 
sufficiency of water in a dry season, the time it is 
most needed, the soil being of a very open and 
porous nature. This, together with the dry, dessi- 
cating north winds, would lick up the water at a ter- 
rible rate when distributed over so large a section of 
country. Flooding the land sufficient to saturate 
it well in the winter season when there is but little 
evaporation might not be injurious to health to any 
great extent. This, together with the planting of 
trees^ to break the north winds, we believe to be 
the most feasible plan to reclaim these dry and 
arid "sections. 

At present the upper San Joaquin, King's Kiver, 
and Tulare Lake country, is principally occupied 



8 

by those having stock, for which, some think, in 
its present condition, it is best adapted. 

In referring to the land here being held in large 
tracts, a ranchman present said: "A family here 
would starve to death on one hundred and sixty 
acres. " We remarked, that we thought it a very 
poor country, where an ordinary sized family could 
not make a good living on that amount of land. 
Sheep raising is the chief business in this section. 
By having a large extent of territory to range over, 
considerable flocks may be kept. During a dry 
season, large numbers are lost from starvation. 
At such times, the feed being ate up, it is impos- 
sible to drive them to where good pasturage may 
be found. From Modesto northward to Tehama, 
embracing the lower San Joaquin and the larger 
part of the Sacramento valleys, includes a section, 
in which, in ordinary yeara, a large amount of 
grain is produced. In the upper part of the Sac- 
ramento valley, there is but a very limited amount 
of land suitable for cultivation, the larger part 
being composed of a reddish, gravelly earth, afford- 
ing a very scanty vegetation for stock. 

In the southern counties bordering the coast, 
there are very many fertile valleys, but they gener- 
ally require to be irrigated to insure a crop. In 
many parts there is no timber, making fuel and 
fencing very costly. In about all the principal val- 
leys the water is hard and bad. In drawing water 
fresh from a well, it is found to be warm and dis- 



agreeable, althougli some, on getting used to it, do 
not seem to mind it. In the mountain districts and 
in the northern coast counties, the water is gener- 
ally good. In these dry sections there is generally 
a scarcity of feed. In travelling through them, we 
were often troubled to obtain provender for our 
animals. The owners stating they had not enough 
for their own use . 

Unthreshed barley, wheat, or oats, generally 
cut before it is fully ripe, is used for hay, and we 
have often found where threshed straw was used 
as a substitute. Alfalfa is being introduced in 
many places, (where irrigation can be carried out, ) 
it seems to be pretty well adapted for cows and 
sheep, but not so well for working animals, it being 
too washy. 

The coast country north of San Francisco, taking 
into consideration the certainty of crops, climate, 
water, health, etc, , has our preference. There are 
in this section many fertile valleys, but the more 
broken and mountainous parts are of little value, 
affording only a scanty vegetation for stock. Near 
the coast, the stock range is better and more last- 
ing. The coast rains and fogs usually extend back 
from twenty to thirty miles, their mark being very 
perceptible, esj^ecially in a dry season, the crops 
maturing much better, also a much heavier growth 
of grass than is found further inland. There are 
no Government lands in this State that we could, 
at the present time, recommend. There are some 



10 

good Government lands in the northeast part, in 
Big Valley, Pitt River, Goose Lake, and through- 
out that section. Small tracts may be found, but 
they are situated in among high mountains where 
the winters are long and severe. (See statistical 
tables in another part.) 

OREGON. 

This State is highly favored with all the more 
important and useful elements necessary to sustain 
a large population. It contains a large area of 
agricultural lands, that for productiveness and cer- 
tainty of crops, cannot (probably) be excelled by 
any other part of the world. In the extent and 
variety of the more useful timbers it is probably 
ahead of any other State in the Union, while its 
coal and iron mines are now successfully w^orked 
and are known to be of great extent. Besides, 
there are other minerals, gold, silver, copper, lead, 
etc. Oregon is divided into two grand divisions 
by the Cascade Range of Mountains. The western 
is marked by a more humid atmosphere, and 
about half its area is covered with heavy forests, 
while the eastern has a dry atmosphere. Its 
timber is confined to the more elevated and moun- 
tainous parts, the residue being covered with a* 
luxuriant growth of grass and generally possessing 
a good soil. Its western half might still be sub- 
divided, its dividing line would be the Calapooia 



11 

Mountains, being rather a spur connecting the 
Cascade with the Coast Range of Mountains in 
about latitude 44 deg. north. The southern half of 
the western division being very similar in climate, 
productions, etc., to Northern California. This 
division will include that section lying between the 
Cascade and Coast Range of Mountains, the for- 
mer on the east and the latter on the west, with 
the Calapooia Mountains for its northern boundary, 
embracing all the country from thence southward 
to the California line. This section will about em- 
brace the northern limits for the successful cultiva- 
tion of the grape and peach, although they are now 
both raised in favorable localities northward into 
"Washington Territory. In all the valleys of this sec- 
tion corn is successfully raised. Wheat, barley and 
oats, also do well. On going from this section 
westerly over the Coast Range, we find still another 
climate, the vegetation also differing considerably, 
caused principally by the coast rains, and down 
near the coast to a greater or less extent by the 
fogs. These coast rains usually extend inland from 
the coast thirty or forty miles, or to the summit of 
the Coast Range, where they give out They fall 
occasionally during the spring, and sometimes in 
the summer months. They are a peculiarity of the 
Vhole coast from San Francisco northward, but are 
more frequent and copious northward. 



12 



WALLAMET VALLEY. 

This valley is the largest body of agricultural 
land in the State, and taking into consideration 
the certainty and uniformity of its crops, one of 
the most important bodies on the Pacific Slope. 
It is one hundred and fifty miles long, with an 
average width of about forty miles. The general 
course of the Wallamet River is near the centre 
of the valley, receiving from either side at quite 
regular intervals its tributaries, fringed along their 
banks with cotton wood, fir, ash, and maple, the 
intermediate space being mostly prairies, with some 
scattering oaks along their borders. On the east 
side of the valley, the Cascade Range, with its line 
of verdant hue stretching north and south, with an 
occasional snow peak looming up into the horizon, 
and on the west, the Coast Range, having a far less 
altitude with no lines of pei-petual snow, but pos- 
sessing a grandeur pleasant to look upon. " The 
soil along the banks of the Wallamet and its 
tributaries, is composed of sand, vegetable matter, 
and various decomposed earths, and may be con- 
sidered strictly alluvial. " This section is about all 
thickly settled and contains the heaviest part of the 
population of the State. One remarkable feature 
of this State is, that it has never, since its first set- 
tlement, known a failure of its crops, nor plague of 
any description. There being, as yet, no rapid nor 
cheap mode of transportation between this State 



IB 

and the Atlantic States, has operated as a bar to its 
rapid settlement. But for all that, there is a steady 
flow of emigration to this State, and as it becomes 
better known, will increase. (See meteorological 
and statistical tables in another part.) 

NEVADA. 

Taken from the Alia California: *' Nevada is a 
desert. It has an area of 112,000 square miles, 
surpassing considerably in size any State east of 
the Mississippi, and has got only 50,000 inhabi- 
tants. In 1870, the number, according to the Fed- 
eral census, was only 42,491, and in the meantime 
the increase has not been large. It is not neglected 
because of inaccessiblity. In proportion to the 
population, it has more railroad than any other 
State in the Union. It has 554 miles, about one 
mile for eighty people, whereas New York has one 
for 500. It is intersected through the middle by 
the Pacific Eailroad, which transjDorts large num- 
bers of capitalists and laborers across its territory 
every month. It does not suffer from obscurity. 
It is advertised through the world by the richness 
of the Comstock Lode, which sends tons of its 
silver bars every day to Europe, and excites the 
attention of speculators everywhere by the tre- 
mendous fluctuations of its stocks. And yet Ne- 
vada is a desert. Its mountains generally have no 
timber, and its valleys are covered with the forbid- 



14 

den and worthless sage brush. Its situation in the 
best part of the temperate zone— between parallels 
35 and 42 deg. of latitude — does not protect it from 
desolation. Its great misfortune is the dryness of 
the ^climate. The average rainfall does not exceed 
fom-Jnclies in a year. " This State contains some 
bodies of good (although limited) land for cultiva- 
tion and grazing purpose. They are usually situ- 
ated about the sinks of the mountain streams. 
The ranchmen and farmers of this section, that 
have good locations are generally doing well. 
There are, also, some good government lands in 
this State, but taking into consideration the climate 
and other reasons not necessary to mention here, 
we could not recommend this State as a desirable 
place for any one to make a home in. Nevada has 
not a^single navigable river. 



WASHINGTON TEKRITORY 

Is the extreme northwest part of United States ter- 
ritory, excepting Alaska, which is considerably fur- 
ther north. Joining British Columbia on the north, 
and Oregon and Idaho on the south and east. 
Like'^Oregon it is divided into two grand divisions 
by^the Cascade Range of Mountains, the general 
features of the two divisions being very similar to 
that of Oregon, there being, however, less prairie 
and open country in western Washington than in 
the same division of Oregon. The western division 



15 

is admirably situated for trade, commerce, ship- 
building, etc. Lumbering, coal mining and ship- 
building are now the leading industries of this 
section. It contains considerable bodies of agri- 
cultural and grazing lands, much of it yet govern- 
ment land. The eastern division of Washington 
Territory is best adapted for stock raising. This 
section contains a large area of good agricultural 
land, but there being at present no cheap mode of 
transportation to a market, but little farming is 
done in this section. Washington Territory has 
little or no waste land, although some of its heavy 
forests may not be made available for many years 
to come. 

IDAHO TEEEITORY. 

Idaho forms part of the basin of the Columbia, 
and is drained by Snake River and by Clark's Fork 
of the Columbia River and their tributaries. Its 
greatest length from north to south is 410 miles, 
its width on the southern boundary being 251 
miles, with a northern boundary (joining British 
Columbia) of 40 miles. Few Territories are more 
copiously watered than Idaho. The chief resources 
of Idaho, at present, are its gold and silver mines. 
Stock raising is also engaged in to a considerable 
extent, for which it is well adapted. Farming is 
only engaged in to the extent of supplying home 
demands. The chief outlets are by way of the 



16 

Central Pacific Railroad for the southern part, and 
by way of the Columbia Eiver for the northern 
part of the Territory. Considerable quantities of 
wool, hides and furs, are sent out of the Territory 
annually. It offers good inducements to those 
wishing to go into the stock business, but for small 
farmers it is not so well adapted, on account of 
their being no near and convenient market. There 
are considerable bodies of good government land 
in Idaho yet unoccupied. The best and principal 
bodies of it are in the northern part of the Terri- 
tory. The climate is much the same as that of 
eastern Oregon and Washington. 



NEBALEM EIVER 

Is the first stream of any considerable size running 
into the ocean south of the Columbia. It takes it 
rise in the highlands south of the Columbia, and 
by its meanderings is about seventy-five miles in 
length. For the first fifteen or twenty miles, it 
pursues a northerly course, after which its general 
course is west to southwest. The river has cut a 
deep channel through soft sandstone and at low water 
(with the exception of an occasional riffle) has a 
very gentle current, and is generally free of drift- 
wood or other obstructions, and does not seem to 
overflow its banks to any great extent. A few 
miles below, where the old military road crosses it, 
and about twenty-five miles from its mouth, the 



17 

river runs through a cafion, where it has a suc- 
cession of falls and rapids for a few miles — where 
the mountains close into the river. The North Fork 
enters the main river about eight miles from its 
mouth. For a few miles above its mouth the river 
has an average width of about half a mile, but in 
places is over one mile in width, and has a good 
depth of water for about fourteen miles. The en- 
trance of this river from the ocean is obstructed 
by a bar, the channel being very shallow and 
changeable. During the summer months, when 
the north winds prevail, the channel, from its 
mouth, makes a short curve to the southward, fol- 
lowing near the beach for a considerable distance, 
but during the winter months, when southerly 
winds prevail, the channel trends to the north- 
ward. The entrance to this river, at present, is 
hardly practicable for ocean craft, except with the 
aid of steam during high water, and when the sea 
is comparatively smooth. Its entrance, however, is 
susceptible of being improved by means of a break- 
water to confine the channel and prevent the sand 
drifting and filling up. The large bodies of valu- 
able timber and vast deposits of coal in this sec- 
tion, together with the settlement of these parts, 
now soon to be realized, will soon render such a 
work an imperative necessity. 

The bottom lands of the Nehalem are of a light 
alluvial soil, and are highly productive. AVe never 
saw finer vegetables than we found growing in the 



18 

gardens of the settlers in this valley, such as pota- 
toes, cabbages, onions, beans, corn, etc. We also 
saw some very fine vrheat, oats, and barley. It is 
also less subject to frosts, there being seldom any 
frosts before the middle of November. The prin- 
cipal part of the valley is covered with a heav}^ 
growth of underbrush, such as vine, maple, crab- 
apple, salmon berry, elder, and hazel, with some 
scattering fir, spruce, alder, ash and maple. There 
is but little open prairie land. On the waters of 
the upper Nehalem, there are considerable bodies 
of open highlands, the timber consisting chiefly of 
a small growth of fir; also vine, maple, soft maple, 
alder, elder, and hazel. These highlands have very 
good soil, being generally a black vegetable loam, 
and mostly free of stone or gravel. Back of these 
highlands the country becomes still more elevated, 
till we come to what might be termed a back bone 
or divide between this stream and the waters of 
the Wallamet and Columbia, the more mountainous 
part being covered with a heavy growth of timber. 
The upper Nehalem is somewhat warmer (but not 
oppressive) in the summer season, and not so sub- 
ject to fogs, as it is down near the coast. Coal of su- 
perior quality has been found near the North Fork, 
with an easy grade to the river, about three miles 
distant. Kecently, coal has been found in various 
parts of the upper Nehalem. This, together with 
the general conformation of this section, show 
pretty conclusively that this whole region is under- 
laid with coal. 



19 

So far, the settlers' stock here have wintered well 
without being fed, and a moderate amount of stock 
running at large would seldom require provender. 
There is considerable wild grass and peavine, a 
species of w^eed that starts up in February, is found 
in the bottoms. The elk feed on it, and cattle, also, 
are very fond of it. The scouring-rush is also 
found in the low lands. Timothy and clover take 
easily and thrive exceedingly well in all this coast 
country. 

We estimate there being about one hundred 
thousand acres of choice bottom, and about the 
same amount of table and high lands of choice 
quality; in all, two hundred thousand acres; be- 
sides much other land that will eventually be set- 
tled, all situated on the Nehalem and its tributaries. 
In this estimate we have not taken into considera- 
tion the more mountainous and heavily timbered 
lands that will yet be valuable for their timber, and 
after the timber is taken o£f, will still be valuable 
for grazing purposes, as it has been found by ex- 
perience that all ihe tame grasses, such as timothy 
and clover, take readily here when the large timber 
is removed, whether by burning, or otherwise. 

If the above estimate be correct, it would furnish 
twelve hundred and fifty families with one hundred 
and sixty acres to each family, there being now 
only about one hundred settlers in all this region. 
This section is well adapted for dairying, and (as 
the country becomes more opened) for farming 



20 

purposes. Although most of these lands have to 
be cleared, their great productiveness and sureness 
of crops will amply repay the husbandman for the 
extra labor bestowed in bringing it under cultiva- 
tion. There being numerous little brooks and 
springs of the purest water, with no miasmatic in- 
fluences, the settler here need have no fear of chills 
and fever, so common in many parts of the west. 
Heretofore, the want of facilities for ingress and 
egress to and from this section has operated as a 
bar to its settlement. But of late several trails 
have been cut into this section, and two or three 
wagon roads commenced, and will, without doubt, 
ere long, be finished. (See our table of routes and 
distances.) 

TILLAMOOK BAY 

Is about fifty miles south of the Columbia Eiver 
and eight miles south of the mouth of the Nehalem. 
It is about twelve miles long (from its mouth to 
Lincoln City, the head of navigation,) and about 
four miles wide at its widest part. The entrance is 
narrow, but has a straight channel with about four- 
teen feet af water on the bar. Just inside the en- 
trance are some sunken rocks, which are bare at 
low water. Two schooners are at the present time 
engaged in the trade between this place and Port- 
land, the principal exports being butter, cheese , 
hides, and potatoes. This bay commands a por- 
tion of the trade of the Nehalem Valley, also Netart& 



21 

Bay and the surrounding country, and aa the 
country settles up its trade will become of consid- 
erable importance. The Minna, Kelsy, Doherty, 
Trask and Tillamook rivers, all enter Tillamook 
Bay, and vary from thirty to fifty miles in length ; 
each of them having more or less good bottom 
lands on them. The Doherty and Tillamook rivers 
are each settled for about four miles up, and the 
Trask is settled for about eight miles up. The 
country watered by these streams is mostly mount- 
ainous and timbered, but possesses a good soil with 
considerable range for stock. In many places the 
large timber is nearly all burnt up by the fires that 
have passed through it. In such places there is 
usually found considerable grass growing. The 
Oak Horton Prairie (usually pronounced Oquarton,) 
lies between the Trask and Doherty rivers, and at 
present is the chief settlement. Next in import- 
ance is Long Prairie, situated on the south side of 
Trask, and between it and the Tillamook River. 
The prairies have a black, rich looking soil, covered 
with grass and fern, but on being cultivated, have 
been found to be inferior to the timbered lands, 
and are now used principally for grazing purposes. 
There is a considerable amount of tide land about 
the mouths of the different rivers emptying into 
the bay, that is valuable for hay and grazing pur- 
poses. This section is well adapted for dairying, 
which is now carried on here to a considerable ex- 
tent, there being green food nearly the year round, 



22 

an abundance of pure cold water, and the climate 
favorable. Vegetables, such as potatoes, cabbage, 
turni^DS, carrots, and peas, all thrive and jdeld 
largely; peas being raised for fattening hogs — 
generally finishing on grain. This coast country 
is not so well adapted for the growing of wheat, 
but oats and barley yield very heavy crops. It is 
also well adapted for the production of grass, such 
as timothy and clover, although there is at times 
some difficulties in curing it, especially down the 
coast. Fruits, such as apples, pears, plums, 
cherries, gooseberries, and currents, are profusely 
grown. Stock raising is also engaged in to a con- 
siderable extent, and beef cattle are often driven to 
the Portland market. 

LINCOLN CITY, 

The principal shipping and business point of this 
section of country, is situated on a slough connect- 
ing with the bay, and is conveniently situated for 
trade with the surrounding country. Several small 
vessels have been built here by its citizens, that 
have since either been sold in other ports, or are 
engaged in the commerce of this place. Hereto- 
fore, this section has been difficult of access, the 
only means of communication being a difficult trail 
leading over the Coast Kange Mountains to the 
Wallamet Valley, or by sail vessel to Portland. 
But recently a wagon road has been made and 
another commenced, both leading to the Wallamet 



23 

Valley. These roads will give a new impetus to 
the settlement of this part of the country. About 
five miles south of Tillamook we come to 

NETARTS BAY, 

"Which is a small bay with shallow entrance; but is 
occasionally entered by schooners of light draught. 
Its trade will probably be, to a great extent, tribu- 
tary to Tillamook Bay. Oystering is carried on 
here to some extent, and it is said that the largest 
oysters north of San Francisco are found in this 
bay. No fresh water streams of any considerable 
size enter it, and as yet, but few settlers have 
located in this vicinity. 

YAQUINNA BAY, 

At the present time, is the only place of any com- 
mercial importance between Tillamook and the 
XJmpquaEiver. It has a narrow entrance, with about 
twelve feet of water on the bar. Some commerce is 
carried on between this place and San Francisco; 
lumber being the chief article of export. Oyster- 
ing is also carried on; several vessels having been 
built here. A steamer is employed in transpo-rt 
ation and towing in the bay. There is also a large 
lumber mill in successful operation; and coal has 
recently been discovered in this vicinity. This bay 
is connected with the Wallamet Valley by a good 
wagon road, and the subject of a railroad connect- 



24 

ing this bay with the Wallamet, has of late been 
considerably agitated, and it will probably soon be 
built. 

This being the nearest tide water to a large ex- 
tent of the upper part of the Wallamet Valley; 
and this coast country, which although considerably 
broken, possesses a good soil, will eventually make 
Yaquinna Bay of considerable importance. Very 
little of this coast country (between the Wallamet 
Valley and the coast) is now settled. The soil, 
even to the top of the mountains, is good, and 
there is more or less level land on all the streams 
that is extremely rich. So there is hardly any of 
it but that will make good pasturage for stock, 
the ground never suffering from drouth, the grass 
grows nearly the whole year. 

Many years ago the largest part of the timber of 
this section was killed by fire, since which, other 
fires have gradually burned the deadened timbers, 
so that in many places there is hardly any left. 
At present these burnt districts are chiefly covered 
with fern, briers, grass, etc. The settlements of this 
section are principally confined to the roadside and 
adjoining the bay. There was a grant of land of 

alternate sections miles in width on each 

side of the road to the company that constructed 
it. This land, we believe, is for sale, at very rea- 
sonable rates. But outside of their limits (to the 
best of our recollection, five miles in width on each 
side of the road,) there is a large extent of country 
suitable for settlement. 



26 



coos BAY 



" Is nineteen miles south of the TJmpqua. Its en- 
trance is north of, and immediately against the 
highland, forming Cape Arago, which extends five 
miles west, beyond, and at right angles with the 
line of the coast. The cape being bold land, forms 
a barrier to the escape of the drifting sands from 
the upper coast, thereby causing a continual change 
of channel and shoal water on the bar. * * * 
From the peculiar position of the bar as a recept- 
acle of drift sand, no improvement of a perma- 
nently beneficial character can be made. The 
trade of this bay is extensive and important, con- 
sisting chiefly in coal and lumber; its commerce 
being all with San Francisco. Extensive deposits 
of coal and vast forests of valuable timber are found 
in this vicinity, the latter consisting chiefly of fir, 
spruce and cedar. It has been estimated an aver- 
age of sixteen vessels per week arrive at Coos Bay. 
Steam tugs are employed to tow vessels in and out 
over the bar, but it is not practicable for vessels to 
enter or depart during very heavy weather." 

Two large coasting steamers are now employed 
in the trade between Coos Bay and San Francisco, 
making weekly trips. There are several thriving 
towns on this bay, the principal of which is Marsh- 
field, near the head of the bay. It is conveniently 
situated for supplying the coal mines, mills, and 
logging camps of this section. 



The Coos River, on which is situated the oldest 
settlement of this section, empties into the bay 
nearly opposite Marshfield. This place also re- 
ceives a considerable amount of trade from the 
Coquille River, by way of the isthmus, over which 
a railroad is now in operation, connecting the 
waters of the Coquille with Coos Bay. Two steam- 
ers are engaged in plying to all points on the bay. 
Shipbuilding is also carried on at different points 
on the bay, employing several hundred men. 

There is a considerable amount of tide land join- 
ing on the bay and on the many sloughs and streams 
connecting with it, that is well adapted for hay, 
grazing, dairying, etc. We believe they are mostly 
taken up as State swamp lands. The highlands 
south of the bay are sufficiently level, mostly cov- 
ered with dead timber and brush; some of it quite 
open; but the soil, so far as we examined it, was 
generally poor. All this section is believed to be 
underlaid with coal. The soil on the highlands, 
east and north of the bay, is some better, on which 
the principal part of the timber has been killed by 
fires, leaving many of the dead trunks standing; 
since which there has sprung up a considerable 
amount of small growth, it being mostly cherry, 
willow, elder, briers, etc.; with a considerable 
amount of range for stock in it. There is in this 
section plenty of government land of this quality, 
in from one to six miles of tide water and naviga- 
tion. In this section, by which we mean the Coos 



27 

Bay, Coquille River, and country south to Rogue 
River, embracing an area of about three thousand 
square miles, at least two thirds of it is well 
adapted for settlement, while only about one 
twentieth of it is now settled. About one third of 
this area is sufficiently level, while two thirds of it 
might be set down as quite rough, but not any 
more so than a great deal of California, that is now 
settled with roads running in every direction; for 
instance, Mendocino County; while the soil here is 
superior to that. The coal mines, lumber mills, 
ship building, together with the gold mines near 
the coast, make a ready market for all the produce 
raised so far. And there is a considerable amount 
of the supplies for Coos Bay that are yet shipped 
from San Francisco, for instance hay, when there 
is an abundanbe of the best hay land here lying 
out to waste. Having described and pointed out 
some of the natural advantages of this section, we 
will now state the objectionable part. First, it is 
a new country; there are yet few roads; roads 
have been projected, and made, or partly made, in 
all the settled parts. There is only one wagon 
road connecting this section with the outside 
world; the Coos Bay and Roseburg wagon road, 
with two branches connecting with the Coquille 
River in two places. There are trails up and down 
the coast, and to all the principal points. Most of 
the settlers live on or near tide water, where they 
can send off their produce and get their supplies 



28 

by boat. There is a steam schooner, the " Cor- 
delia," Captain Kadcliff, plying between the Co- 
quille Kiver and San Francisco, carrying away 
lumber and produce ; bringing back in return sup- 
plies for the settlers. Second, objections are made 
to so much timber; (see our article on how to make 
a farm;) we prefer a country with rather an abund- 
ance of timber to one where there is none; it is hard 
to suit everybody. There are timbered lands in 
this section that will, in a few years, bring over 
one hundred dollars an acre for the timber alone. 
Third, in a new country like this especially, while 
thinly settled, it is tedious and laborious making 
roads; but mind, if you wait for the roads to be 
made, and everything nice and convenient, you 
may expect to pay lifty dollars, or more, an acre, 
for your land. 

THE COQUILLE RIVER 

Takes it rise in the Coast Range of mountains, and 
is about seventy-five miles in length. Although of 
no considerable length, it waters a considerable ex- 
tent of country, having three main forks, besides 
numerous other tributaries. It enters the Pacific 
about 43 deg. 15 min. north, and thirty miles north 
of Port Orford. It is about 120 yards wide at its 
mouth at low tide, but widens out from a half to a 
mile in width on ascending it, for a few miles. 
The tide flows up it for forty- two miles, and is 
navigable for small steamers and boats for that dis- 



29 

tance. The settlers take small boats twelve miles 
further up during the wet season. With no great 
amount of labor this river could be made a splen- 
did stream for navigation for about fifty miles of its 
length. The entrance to this river is obstructed 
by a bar, but more particularly by some rocks, 
through and between which, the present channel 
runs. Just outside, and in the south side of the 
channel, is a sunken rock, that shows at low water. 
About two hundred yards from, and about due 
west of the entrance, is another sunken rock; the 
present channel seems to run chiefly to the south 
of it. The channel runs close to and in among 
some large rocks to the south and west of the en- 
trance, only a short distance over the bar, not over 
half a mile from the mouth of the river, to deep 
water; there are a great many rocks to the southward 
of the entrance, but none on the north side. In 
former years, the entrance of this river was consid- 
erably to the northward of where it now is; but of 
late years, the drifting sands have crowded the 
channel in among the rocks to the southward. 
About half a mile above the present mouth, there 
being a hard bottom and good foundation with a 
narrow channel, it would be no very difficult matter 
to turn it through by the way of its old channel, 
which would avoid the rocks that block up its pas- 
sage so boldly at present. This, together with 
some precautionary measures taken to prevent the 
drifting sands from encroaching on the channel, 



30 

would make the entrance practicable and feasible 
for ordinary sized coasting vessels. There being 
in this section extensive coal fields and some of the 
most valuable timber on the Pacific Coast, together 
with a large extent of rich agricultural lands, render 
such a work necessary, and we have no doubt that 
sooner or later it will be done. 

TOPOGRAPHY, SOIL, CLIMATE, LANDS, ETC., OF THIS SECTION. 

The river bottom has an average width of about 
one mile, a considerable portion of it from one to 
two miles in width, with an alluvial soil, producing 
good crops of wheat, oats, hay, peas, potatoes, 
cabbages, etc. ; very good corn is raised on the up- 
per part of the river; wheat yields from forty to 
eighty bushels to the acre, and some of the farmers 
here claim to have raised one hundred bushels to 
the acre. The lower part of the river is better 
adarpted for hay, grazing, dairying, etc., there 
being extensive tide flats free of bush and covered 
with a luxuriant growth of native grass, affording 
good pasture the entire year. The bottoms on the 
upper part of the river are covered with a heavy 
growth of valuable timber, composed of myrtle, 
maple, ash, and high up there is some white oak; 
there is also crab apple, salmon bush, elder, etc. 
On the highlands adjoining, there are fir, cedar, 
chestnut, and oak; near the coast the spruce pre- 
vails. The highlands adjoining, are more or less 
broken, considerable of it sufficiently level for cul- 



31 

tivation, and all adapted for grass and grazing, 
where not covered with too heavy a growth of tim- 
ber. Probably two thirds of these lands have no 
heavy timber on them, having been burnt off in 
former years, since which a considerable growth of 
brush has sprung up, together with briers, etc,, 
affording good range for a limited number of stock. 
There is also a great amount of peavine through- 
out the whole Coast Range; cattle are yerj fond of 
it. These highlands have usually a light soil; in 
places a black vegetable mould; in alder flats and 
in some parts a sandy loam; there is very little of 
it gravelly or stony to any injurious extent. We 
saw orchard grass, fruit trees, and vegetables of 
good growth in a number of places on these high- 
lands. The bottoms being so much more product- 
ive, these highlands have so far been neglected, 
but they are better and generally more productive 
than much of the land in the east, that, without 
any improvement, brings fifty dollars an acre in a 
cold climate where they are frozen up half the year. 
Whereas, here in these hills, stock lives the year 
round without feed or shelter. High up on the 
North and Middle Forks and ther tributaries, the 
bottom lands are yet vacant, and nearly all the 
highlands are unoccupied and belong to the gov- 
ernment — a good deal of it surveyed . 

From the eighteenth of February till the first 
of September, 1874, we spent our time in this sec- 
tion, renting a piece of ground on the North Fork, 



82 

one mile above its junction with the main river, on 
which we raised some vegetables. In order to oc- 
cupy the time, and also to become more thoroughly 
acquainted with this section, a considerable portion 
of our time was sj^ent in travelling over and ex- 
amining the surrounding country. 

The following observations of the weather in 
this locality are taken from our note-book: From 
18th to 22d of February, weather mild and clear; 
grass growing; cattle fit for beef that have win- 
tered without being fed. February 22d — a light 
skift of snow in the morning; sun came out about 
noon; snow all gone before night. Weather clear 
and mild till March 1st; snowed or rained most of 
the da}^; has rained or snowed more or less every 
day since up to the 16th of March; but not over 
two inches of snow at any one time; then very 
pleasant and clear; foggy in the morning, till about 
9 A.M.; a few light showers about the last of the 
month; some frost in the morning when the fog- 
failed to appear. Very nice weather up to the 
12th of April, with only a few gentle showers; then 
for three days some heavy showers; but still good 
growing weather. The fogs usually set in during 
the night, lasting till 8 or 10 o'clock the next morn- 
ing, which prevents frost; so that frosts are late 
making their appearance; along the coast and in 
some localities it rarely frosts during the entire 
year. April 24th — we have had but two frosts 
within the past month, and although we have had 



33 

tomatoes up all this month, and without cover, they 
have never suffered from frost. Since the 15th of 
March we have had a beautiful spring; having nice 
gentle showers, as wanted. Had quite a heavy 
rain last of May, making the ground quite wet; 
then again in about a week a rain of several days* 
duration, raining at intervals; occasional showers 
till last of June ; only two or three light rains from 
June till September. There was more rain here 
the past summer than usual; so the settlers say. 
Throughout the summer months the nights were 
pleasantly cool for rest and sleep, while the days 
were never oppressively warm. 

PORT ORFORD 

*' The next place south, is a roadstead, latitude 42 
deg. 45 min. north; longitude 124 deg. 30 min. 
west. It is the most westerly port on the American 
coast, south of Alaska. It is a deep, broad, capa- 
cious roadstead, having on the west and north a 
headland, perpendicular on the harbor side, and 
three hundred and fifty feet in altitude. The bot- 
tom is sand .and mud, clear and free, and gives 
good anchorage. A quarter of a mile outside of 
the extreme south point of the heads, the water 
deepens rapidly and soon attains a great depth, the 
effect of which is to prevent heavy ground swells 
setting in at the roadstead. From the south point 
of the heads easterly, the harbor is four miles 
broad; there are no sunken rocks; all the dangers 



34 

are above water. It is equi-distant from San Fran- 
cisco and Puget Sound, and two hundred and 
twenty miles south of the Columbia River. The 
land is high and prominent, effectually protecting 
the harbor on three sides. In the reports of the 
United States Coast Survey it is laid down as the 
best and most capacious roadstead or summer har- 
bor on the coast. The heads are formed of most 
durable rock, with bold water from seven to ten 
fathoms immediately against them. A wall, con- 
structed in a line east by south from the extreme 
southerly point of the heads, four hundred yards 
in length, would at any and every season of the 
year, protect fifty vessels of the largest size and 
would answer the demands of commerce for many 
years. If greater accomodations should be required 
in the future, the wall could be extended two miles, 
leaving then sufficient space for vessels of the 
largest burden to round to, take in sail and come 
to anchor in any gale, with no fear of a lee shore. 
Northwest fogs never enter the roadstead of Port 
Orford, a peculiarity which distinguishes it from 
every other harbor on the coast south of the Co- 
lumbia. * * * Between the bay ©f San Fran- 
cisco and Puget Sound, a distance measured by 
more than ten degrees of latitude, there is no 
harbor that a vessel can enter in heavy southern 
weather. Nature, which has been otherwise so 
prodigal to the Pacific Coast, has denied to it har- 
bors of refuge for its commerce. " 



35 

For the above we are indebted to an article in 
the AUa California, by Captain William Tichnor, 
one of the pioneer navigators of this coast. Port 
Orford has been spoken of in connection with 
making' it a harbor of refuge for vessels in distress, 
and from our own knowledge of the coast, we be- 
lieve it possesses superior merits over other points 
named for that purpose. Such improvement of the 
harbor once made, it would probably soon become 
a place of considerable commercial importance, as 
it w^ould be the most available point for shipment 
for a large extent of good agricultural country, in- 
cluding the Coquille, Rogue, and Sixes Rivers. 
Besides, there are extensive coal fields, and some 
of the most valuable timber in this section to be 
found on the coast. This section offers good in- 
ducements to those wishing to secure situations in 
a good section of countr}' that will soon grow up 
to importance. A large portion of this section is 
yet unoccupied, being off the main travelled 
thoroughfare, it has not received that attention it 
otherwise would. 

South of Fort Orford to Rogue River, a distance 
of about thirty miles, there is an extent of countiy, 
although it is quite broken yet; on all the little 
streams there are more or less good bottom lands; 
the very best of land; and in places considerable 
bodies of it with good range on the adjacent hills 
for sto(3k. The bottoms are usually covered with 
salmon brush, some crab apple, maple, ash, and 



36 

myrtle; the bills are generally open, with small 
prairies in places. Back, a short distance from the 
coast, there is an abundance of game, such as elk, 
deer, bear, etc., and an abundance of fish on the 
coast and in the creeks. This section, at present, 
is only settled immediataly along the coast by per- 
sons keeping stock and dairying to some extent. 

In speaking of Columbia County, Oregon, a cor- 
respondent of the Portland Bulletin, says: 

"First — the late immigrant, if a farmer, can 
have excellent land to produce, for from $1. 25 to 
$2. 50 per acre. Second — he will have grass range 
in almost unlimited quantities. Horses, cattle, 
sheep, and hogs, require no food in summer, and 
very little in winter. The settler is always in strik- 
ing distance of the best navigation in the State — ■ 
by the Columbia River, either to Portland, Astoria, 
Kalama; or from Kalama by railroad to the Sound. 
Third and last — when the natural resources of this 
country are fully developed, it is agreed on all 
hands, that it will be by far the richest county in 
the State. For example, we have salt water con- 
taining a very large proportion of salt. We have 
iron ore in almost unlimited quantities, already 
prospected, and its richness and quality tested; 
both rich and of excellent quality. We have good 
coal near this iron, both within two and a half 
miles of the Columbia River, with a gently de- 
scending grade all the way. We have also a fine 
quality of red paint within one mile of the river; 



37 

it is now in market. We also have the finest fir 
and cedar timber; besides all other common tim- 
bers in the State, affording the best facilities for 
shipbuilding right on the banks of this ocean-like 
river." 

The western part of Washington Territory offers 
good inducements to settlers. There is no part o^ 
this section that the settler would be any great dis- 
tance from a market. In the vicinity and back of 
Shoalwater Bay, and between them, are consider- 
able bodies of unoccupied land, and outside of 
railroad limits, suitable for settlement. On about 
all the streams running into the Sound, and taking 
their rise in the Cascade Mountains, are more or 
less good lands subject to settlement; a portion of 
them railroad lands. More notably we would speak 
of the Skadget River; that about eight miles from 
its mouth, is obstructed by a jam of huge trees; 
there is now a prospect of this jam being removed 
shortly; and when opened, this river will be navig- 
able for about sixty miles, opening up a large 
section of good countr}'. For a more minute de- 
scription we would refer the reader to our work 
describing Washington Territory, its lands, etc. 

A correspondent of the Bellingham Bay 3Iail, 
writes: "Guemas Island is situated at the south end 
of Bellingham Bay, fourteen miles from Whatcom. 
Its location being central, and on the line of travel 
for all steamers, ships, etc., from the straits, bound 
to and returning from Bellingham Bay, render it a 



38 

desirable place for a residence aud home. It con- 
tains nearly seven thousand acres of land, all of 
which is surveyed and ready for settlement by 
homestead "and pre-emption. It being outside the 
railroad limits, each settler is entitled to 160 acres 
at $1.25 per acre; the nature and quality of the soil 
is productive, being composed of black loam with 
clay subsoil; a considerable portion being covered 
with elder and willow, it is easily cleared; at present 
there are eighteen settlers located here, including 
six families. " 

EASTERN WASHTNGION. 

Mr. D. P. Thompson, who has been surveying 
north of Lewiston, says: "It contains more land 
adapted to agriculture than is embraced in the en- 
tire Wallamet Valley. I saw whole sections that 
would average one and a half tons of bunch grass to 
the acre ; the length of the valley is over one hundred 
and twenty-five miles." This valley now contains 
about one thousand inhabitants. The Northern 
Pacific Railroad route passes through this section. 
A correspondent of an Idaho paper says of this 
section : "For the whole distance after leaving the 
brow of the mountain, immediately north of Lewis- 
ton to Pine Creek, a distance of over fifty miles, and 
for many miles on either side of the line dividing 
Idaho and Washington Territory, the country is one 
continuous tract of the best land to be found in any 
c ountry. Innumerable valleys of from ten to twenty 



39 

miles in length, divided only by slightly undulating 
ground, while the few hills and fewer mountains to 
be seen, too rugged for cultivation, are covered with 
the most luxuriant grass. " 

HOW TO MAKE A FARM. 

Our directions here will apply to the timbered 
and brushy sections which we have recommended, 
being the usual mode adopted in those sections. 
The immigrant usually selects a favorable spot to 
commence where there is but little large timber; 
after which, he clears off a space whereon to erect 
his cabin; usually near some stream where there is 
some bottom or bench land, and where there is 
no great amount of large timber. The small 
growth is first cut, felling it all one way as much 
as possible, after which the larger growth is felled 
on top of it, or the larger growth may be girded 
and left standing; the best time to do this is 
through June and July, when the sap is at its high- 
est; after it has lain one or two months, fire is set 
to it in different places. Some cut the vine maple 
off about six feet from the ground, take a yoke of 
cattle and chain, hitching on to the top of these 
stubs and "snake" them out; the soil being loose 
and the main roots near the top of the ground, it 
is not so difiicult, having an axe close at hand to 
cut any root that may hold fast. We saw at one 
place on the Chehalis Kiver two patches of excel-, 
lent wheat, the ground for which had never been 



40 

ploughed. The proprietor stated that after " snak- 
ing" out the grubs and sowing the wheat, the 
ground being mellow, he took a yoke of cattle and 
dragged a large brush over it to smooth it down 
and cover the wheat. One of the patches (a few 
acres) referred to was volunteer, or the second year 
without sowing, and was then headed out nicely 
and promised a good crop. The larger forest trees 
are felled in this wise : Take a long shanked auger, 
bore two holes, one above the other, at an angle 
so they will meet some distance inside; after which 
some pitch fagots are lit and introduced into the up- 
per hole, the flame causing a suction of air from 
the lower hole, acting something like a blow pipe. 
That portion of the tree inside of the sap being 
more or less of a pitchy nature, burns with great 
rapidity, and in a short time appears and roars like 
a huge furnace, and can often be heard at a con- 
siderable distance; the outside, or sap, being 
watery, without any pitch, and not burning while 
green, leaves the tree a shell; after the inside of 
the tree is pretty well burned through, the sap is 
chipped through on the side it is desired to fall, 
when it comes down with a terrible crash that can 
often be heard for miles around. The usual price 
for slashing is from eight to twelve dollars per acre, 
cutting all down (except the large growth) ready 
for burning. Where one is situated near tide water 
and shipping, much of this surplus timber may be 
turned to a profitable account in the way of ships* 



41 

knees; the maple, ash and myrtle lumber, brings 
a high price in the San Francisco and other mar- 
kets. After burning the brush, there is some pick- 
ing up and grubbing to be done before the ground 
is ready for the plough, and unless one goes to a 
great expense, there will still be some large stumps 
in the ground. But then, ten acres of these lands 
will produce more than one hundred acres of land 
in many parts of this coast that we could name, 
that are now estimated at a high value. One may 
add a few acres every year and not be out very 
much, and in a few years have a considerable sized 
farm; but these timbered lands are not adapted for 
going into farming on a large scale. At the start, 
small farming in connection with stock raising on 
a limited scale, which may be enlarged as these 
lands become opened up and set in tame grass. 

The most available mode of opening up these 
woody sections is by fire; fire set in the most avail- 
able and desirable places in the dry season can do 
no great harm, as the fall rains are pretty sure to 
stop it; this is very effectual where it is desired to 
destroy the brush, dead timber, etc. The fire set 
out in a dry time (say about the last of August) will 
usually clear off the ground sufficiently for the pur- 
pose of sowing grass seed, which takes readily 
on these burns, and prevents, to a great extent, 
the growth of brier, elders, etc. We have seen 
many places in this coast country, where good 
meadow lands were set in this way, that had never 



42 

been ploughed nor harrowed. The grass seed 
should be sown soon after the burn, the first fall 
rains making the new grass appear in a very few 
days. We once put in about thirty acres of timothy 
in this way with a very small amount of labor. 

Orchard grass is very suitable for high timbered 
lands; stands tramping, and being shaded better' 
and also comes earlier than other grass; red-top is 
thought to stand overflow better than other grasses, 
and hence it is sown where it is liable to be covered 
with water; but timothy is the most commonly 
grown in this coast country. 

HOG RAISING. 

This coast country is well adapted for the raising 
of hogs, and it is strange it is not entered into 
more largely. We contend that a pound of pork 
can be produced here with less labor than in Mis- 
souri, Illinois, or Iowa. First — if the right breed 
of hogs are obtained, they will keep in good growing 
condition on clover and other grasses that keep 
green here nearly all the year. Second — this is the 
natural soil and climate for the pea, on which hogs 
fatten finely, and make very good pork, too. We 
give the process adopted by a farmer who is now 
making plenty of money out of it. He usually 
sows his first crop of peas in February, and con_ 
tinues to sow in every month (unless prevented by 
excessively bad weather) till July. The first crop 
is ready about the last of May and continues on 



43 

till the July crop coming in October. As soon as 
the pods of the pea are pretty well filled, but be- 
fore they are ripe, and while the vines are «till 
green, a moveable fence is thrown around a portion 
of the field, when he turns in his hogs, they eating 
vines, peas, pod, and all. After they have cleaned 
out the first patch, the fence is moved in a little, 
taking in another patch, and another, and so on, 
till the fall, and it would astonish any one to see 
how they grow. The field is so arranged as to 
let the hogs have free access to the water. Another 
great advantage in this process is, that the ground 
is all the while getting richer, and at the same time 
takes a very small amount of labor in proportion to 
the results. This business cannot very easily be 
overdone, as there is a great demand in the mining 
regions of the Pacific Coast for pork and bacon; 
large quantities are now shipped here from the 
Western States. 

STOCK EANGE AND STOCK RAISING. 

The best and most extensive stock range is now 
found throughout Eastern Oregon, Eastern Wash- 
ington and Idaho Territory. There are parts of 
those districts that are now fully stocked, but the 
larger part huve little or no stock on it. Through 
the whole length of the eastern slope of the Cas- 
cade Range of Mountains, there is found the best 
of summer range; but through the winter months 
it is mostly covered with snow; the grass being 



44 

generally green through the summer months, with 
an abundance of pure cold water, the climate favor- 
able, this section affords grand openings for dairy- 
ing. We think the most available plan would be 
to have a place in the low country; to keep stock 
through the winter months; and also, where feed 
could be provided. The eastern slope of these 
mountains is mostly open, scattering timber, with 
prairies of considerable size, all covered with the 
best of grass. By having a place in the low country 
for winter range, and taking the stock to the 
mountain range in summer, would give the range 
in the low country a chance to grow up for winter 
use. This plan, we think, would work admirably 
in sheep raising, by which they might be kept in 
almost unlimited numbers. In the low country 
adjoining the Columbia and Snake Rivers, stock 
has been kept for many years without any feed 
being provided for them; but we do not consider it 
right or safe to do so; there should be provender 
provided to feed at least one or two months. In 
some parts of Eastern Washington and near the 
Idaho line, the bunch grass gi'ows of a sufficient 
length to cut for hay; but in most parts it is too 
short for that purpose; but there is an abundance 
of table land where timothy or grain can be raised. 

THE FUTURE DAIRY DISTRICT. 

Along the coast of Oregon and Washington Ter- 
ritory, including a strip from thirty to forty miles 



45 

in width, will at no distant day be the chief dairy 
district of this coast, and we might add, not only 
of this coast, but of the United States. All the 
tame grasses, such as timothy, clover, and orchard 
grass, grow and yield exceedingly well in all this 
section, where they have been tried. About two 
thirds of this section is now covered with a heavy 
forest; but adjoining all the various harbors and 
the mouths of streams, are found a great amount of 
tide land and flats that now grow a great amount 
of native grass of a good quality for stock; and it 
is no very difflcult matter to start tame grass in the 
more open part of the highlands. This section — 
the grass growing the larger part of the year, the 
best of soil and climate for the raising of roots, 
etc., there being an abundance of the best of tim- 
ber near at hand for making shelter, taken all 
togethe — rpresents the greatest inducements for 
dairying in connection with stock raising. 

CLIMATE. 

That we have a superior climate on the Pacific 
Coast we believe is conceded by all. The past 
winter was for a short time unusually cold; in some 
parts of Oregon (a considerable distance from the 
coast) wheat froze out; an unusual occurrence; this 
cold snap lasted about three weeks. In ordinary 
years the grass grows till about the first of De- 
cember, and starts again in February; but often 
grows during the entire winter. Mr. Wilson, living 



46 

at the mouth of Muscle Creek, on the coast, (south- 
west part of Oregon,) says he plants potatoes every 
month of the year, excepting November; has nice 
fresh vegetables growing the whole winter; there 
hardly ever being any frost. We w^ould here re- 
mark that there are many places along the coast 
where frost rarely comes, even as far as 47 deg. 
north, but it becomes colder on going eastward and 
on attaining a greater altitude. In the winter 
season southerly winds j^revail, which are warm 
and bring more or less rain ; w^hen the wind is from 
the east or north, it is cold; the east w^ind being 
our coldest wind, which seldom lasts long. Having 
lived in all parts of this coast, our experience is, 
that in the winter season we prefer Southern Cali- 
fornia, and in the summer season Northern Oregon 
and Washington Territory have our preference, 
where the summers are never oi:)pressively warm, 
and where pure cold water can always be obtained. 

The following we have compiled from what we 
deem reliable authorities: 

An accurate record kept at Portland, Oregon, 
embracing a period of eleven years, gives the fol- 
lowing average range of temperature as compared 
with that of New York City : 





Latitude. 


Spring, 


Summer, 


Fall, 


Winter, 


Average. 


WeBtern Oregon, 


46- 10' 


5P 


6P 


54° 


42° 


52° 


New York City, 


40° 45' 


48-^ 


7'20 


54^ 


31° 


51° 



The comparative rain fall, in inches, during the 
same period, was as follows: 



47 





Spring, 


Summer, 


Fall, 


Winter, 


Year 


Western Oregon, 


16 


4 


17 


2-2 


59 


New York City, 


11 


]1 


9 


10 


41 



Thus Western Oregon and Washington Territory 
have a more equable climate than New York City; 
being milder in spring, and 11 degrees cooler in 
summer, with about equal temi3erature in the fall, 
and being eleven degrees warmer during the winter 
months, although New York is more than five de- 
grees of latitude further south. 

The annexed table, also compiled from the ob- 
servations taken at Portland, determines the char- 
acter of the seasons throughout the Wallamet Valley 
and Puget Sound Basin. In this table ' * Pleasant " 
refers to days without rain or snow; "Rainy,'' to 
days when it rained between sunrise and sunset; 
"Sunshine and Showers," and "Snowed," explain 
themselves. 

WEATHER TABLE. 

Average for Eleven Years — 1858 to 1868, inclusive. 



Pleasant, 

■without rain 

or snow. 



liainy bet. 
sunrise and 
sunset. 



Sunshine 

and 
showers. 



Eemarks. 



January. 
February. 
March. . . . 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August . 

Septemb'r 

October.. 

November 

December 
Av. 11 yrs 



18 


8 


3 


15 


7 


4 


16 





7 


]3 


5 


7 


1 20 


4 


7 


j 22 


3 


5 


27 


1 


3 


27 


1 


3 


' 22 


4 


4 


21 


5 


5 


17 


9 


4" 


14 


10 


5 


237 


63 


57 



2 

2 
2 








Snow 2 ye'rs 
out of 11. 



The num- 
ber of rainy 
days from 

2 to 1 1 p mh 

3 to 12 " 
3 to 12 " 
3 to 7 *' 
Oto 8 " 
Oto 6 '« 
Oto 3 " 
Oto 3 " 
Oto 8 " 
Oto 10 " 

1 to 11 " 

5 to 17 " 
—One year. 



48 



It will be noticed that two hundred and thirty- 
seven days, out of the three hundred and sixty-five, 
were " pleasant." 

The following gives the mean temperatures (for 
the different points named) for the months of Janu- 
ary and July: 

January, July. 

Los Angeles, 52 deg. 

Sacramento, 45 " 

San Francisco, 49 " 
Salem, Oregon, 33 " 

Mean annual amount of rainfall and melted snow : 

Fort Yuma, 3.46 inches. | Dalles, Oregon, 21.74 inches. 

San Diego, 9.16 " Vancouver. W. T., 38.74 " 

Sacramento, 19.56 " | Fort Boise, Idaho, 13.23 " 

San Francisco, 21.52 " I Fort Churchill, Nev,, 5.67 " 

Salem, Oregon, 37.90 " | 

Population of the Pacific States and Territories, 
according to the United States census of 1870 : 



75 deg. 


73 


(C 


57 


( ( 


65 


(C 



CaliforniR, 24th, 


560,247 California, 1870, had 


49,310 Chinese 


Oregon, 36th, 


90,923 Oregon, 


3,330 " 


Nevada, 37th, 


4-2,491 1 Nevada, 


3,152 " 


Washington Territory, 5th, 


23,055 Washington T., " 


234 " 


Idaho Territory, 7th, 


14,099; Idaho lerritory, " 


4,274 " 



California, Oregon, and Washington Territory, 
have added very materially to their population 
since. 

RULING PRICES OF LABOR ON THE PACIFIC SLOPE. 

Thirty dollars a month is now the customary 
wages for farm laborers, except in harvest, when 



49 

$1.50 to $2.00 per day is paid. House carpenters 
in the country get $2. 50 per day, with board. Goiod 
choppers and teamsters at the logging camps, get 
from forty to sixty dollars per month, with board- 
In the mining regions, miners get from $3 .00 to 
$4 00 per day, without board. On Puget Sound, ship 
carpenters get $4. 00 per day, or from sixty to sev- 
enty dollars per month, with board. Caulkers get 
$5.00 per day. The above are coin rates. The 
best time to emigrate to the Pacific Coast is in the 
spring or early in the summer. Do not come late 
in the fall with the expectation of getting work 
through the winter, although those well acquainted 
here may obtain work through the winter months. 
"We have in many instances in the past few years 
in our travels and explorations, been greatly tempted 
to stop our further research to engage in some of 
the many good openings we have met with; and we 
feel safe in saying, that in no other part of the 
United States are there to be found such grand 
opportunities for the industrious and enterprising 
as are now to be found on this coast. 



INDEX. 

PAGE. 

California 5 

Oregon 10 

Nevada 13 

Washington Territory, 14 

Idaho Territory 15 

Nehalem Eiver 16 

Tillamook Bay 20 

Yaquinna Bay 23 

Coos Bay : 25 

Coquille Kiver 28 

Port Orford 33 

Eesources of Columbia County, Oregon 36 

How to make a Farm 39 

Hog Eaising 42 

Stock Kange and Stock Raising 43 

The future Dairy District 44 

Meteorological Tables 46 

Statistical 48 

Advice and Price of Labor 48 



mOX OF liFORMATIOH, 

— AND — 

SETTLERS' GUIDE 



— FOR THE 



PACIFIC SLOPE, 

Including the States of California, Oregon and 
Nevada, and Territories of Washington and 
Idaho, with a description of and 
the peculiarities of each. 

Describing minutely all the mere important bodies of the Public Lands on the Pacific 
Slope, Facilities fcr Settlement, Markets, Health, etc. 

BY J. M. HARRTSOK 



"MULTUM IN PARVO' 



SAN FRANCISCO: 



C. A. MURDOCK & CO., BOOK AXD JOB PRINTERS, 






^SEE 





















;jciioccr cc^<c<rr <r? ■ end 



